How often do we see a global luxury brand driven entirely by word-of-mouth, fueled by customers who love its authentic craftsmanship? At the heart of this journey is a man who never chased profits or markets. He didn’t even know how to read a profit-and-loss account for ten years. What fueled him was passion—pure, an unrelenting passion for creating something as natural and unpretentious as the life he cherished.
From earning ₹300 for his first creation to building a ₹188-crore empire spanning over 25 countries, this is the story of a man who didn’t seek the world but whose creations made the globe seek him.
Curious? Let’s dive in.
In a World of Unity
Dilip Kapur’s story begins in the idyllic, experimental township of Auroville.
Dilip, the son of parents who left a shoe business in Delhi to join the Aurobindo Ashram, grew up in an atmosphere of equality and creativity. Auroville’s openness starkly contrasted with the rigidity of his earlier life in Delhi.
Here, he thrived, embracing an education system free of exams and hierarchy that allowed him to explore his passions freely.
Across the Globe
At just 15, the horizons of Auroville felt too small for his boundless ambition. Armed with determination and an $8 allowance from the Reserve Bank of India, he headed to the United States.
A scholarship to Phillips Academy, Andover, began an academic journey culminating in a Ph.D. in International Affairs from Princeton.
But America, despite its opportunities, left him longing for a home and a more meaningful pursuit.
To A New Chapter Back Home
Returning to Auroville, now a flourishing oasis of 3 million trees, Dilip planted trees and participated in community planning.
Yet, his fascination with leather, sparked by a short stint at a leather goods company in the U.S., nudged him toward a new hobby: designing leather bags.
For Pleasure, Gifting by Surprise
Using vegetable-tanned leather—a sustainable alternative to chemical tanning—he began crafting unique, natural bags, the first of which was gifted to his family. Little did he know his hobby would soon take flight.
In 1978, a friend’s willingness to pay ₹300 for one of his designs surprised and inspired Dilip to launch Hidesign with just ₹25,000 and a single cobbler, Murugayan.
The brand name, which combines “hide” and “design,” reflects the marriage of natural leather and craftsmanship.
Borders For His First Break
Hidesign’s first big break came when a German buyer discovered the brand and ordered 1,400 bags. With only one cobbler, fulfilling even a fraction of this order was challenging.
Yet, they persevered, producing 200 bags in six months. This order became a turning point.
Word of Hidesign’s craftsmanship spread as friends and visitors carried Hidesign products to markets in Australia, the UK, and the U.S., where the brand resonated with a generation of rebels rejecting synthetic materials.
From Alternative Markets To Mainstream
Hidesign thrived in alternative markets for its first decade, catering to customers seeking authenticity and sustainability.
The brand’s big leap into the mainstream came from collaborating with John Lewis in the UK. The cultural shift toward casual and natural styles made Hidesign a global contender.
In 1992, Hidesign’s innovative “Boxy Bag” won the Accessory of the Year award, presented by none other than Princess Diana. This further solidified Hidesign’s growing reputation.
More Than Profits
Dilip readily admits his focus was on something other than financial gain. The joy of design trumped spreadsheets.
Only later, with the help of his son, a lawyer turned businessman, did Hidesign embrace the market’s complexities.
Marketing efforts were nonexistent. Hidesign’s story spread organically, fueled by passionate individuals who saw the brand’s potential.
Recognizing Hidesign’s unique identity, journalists played a key role in propelling it forward.
A Legacy in India
Though Hidesign started as an export-only brand, India became its largest market by 2000.
Struggling to find a distributor who understood the brand’s ethos, Dilip took matters into his own hands, opening exclusive stores in cities like Delhi and Bengaluru.
Today, India accounts for half of Hidesign’s sales. From a handbag brand to a lifestyle brand, Hidesign has expanded its portfolio to include wallets, belts, shoes, sunglasses, luggage, and jackets.
Its offerings reflect Dilip’s keen eye for evolving consumer trends, particularly the shift from functionality to fashion in accessories.
Over Discounts
Hidesign’s pricing strategy mirrors its commitment to quality. The brand avoids heavy discounting, focusing instead on craftsmanship and timeless design.
Its products are positioned as investments, appealing to customers who value authenticity.
A Vision for the Future
With over 1,400 employees, 102 exclusive stores, and a presence in 112 large-format outlets, Hidesign clocks annual revenues of ₹170 crore.
Under Dilip’s leadership and the creative guidance of Italian designer Alberto Ciaschini, the brand continues to innovate while staying true to its roots.
I’m Archana R. Chettiar, an experienced content creator with
an affinity for writing on personal finance and other financial content. I
love to write on equity investing, retirement, managing money, and more.
